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September 20, 2007

Knitting math (triangular shawls)

Wing o' the Moth is 65% done. How do I know? No, I didn't use the Excel shawl progress calculator. For one thing I hate Excel, spreadsheets and Microsoft software in general, and then I much rather prefer to be able to figure things out for myself. If I can do it on paper, I don't have to get up from the sofa (my knitting place of choice) and get back to the computer.

I had seen a blog post months ago about the math of calculating your knitting progress on triangular shawls, but I couldn't find it so I posted a request for help on Ravelry and sputnik provided the formula derived from the Excel progress calculator.

That went over my head (yeah, a math genius I'm not) so with what I remembered from the blog post I couldn't find and a couple of tries, I got this and it seems to work well.

Here it is:

Take your total numer of rows (in my case 204) and multiply by the total number of stitches at the longest row (471) and you get the total number of stitches your shawl requires.
Total rows = 204
Total sts at last (longest) row = 471
204 * 471 = 96,084
Divide that by 2 and you get the total number of stitches you need to knit to make the shawl.
96,084 / 2 = 48,042

Now take the number of rows you've knitted, say 165, and the number of stitches on the needle, about 385 (I may be off a couple of stitches but you get the idea) and do the same.
Multiply the current row by the current stitches, divide the result by two and you'll get the number of stitches you have knitted so far.

165 * 385 = 63,140 / 2 = 31,570

Now divide the current stitches by the total stitches to get your progress so far:

31,570 / 48,042 = 0.65 (65%)

To put this into a formula where CR = Current rows, Cs = Current stitches, TCs = Total Current stitches, Tr = Total rows, Ts = Total stitches, TOs = Total Overall stitches, P = progress:

(Cr * Cs) / 2 = TCs

(Tr * Ts) / 2 = TOs

TCs / TOs = P

As soon as I figured it out, madorville replied on Ravelry and pointed me to her own blog entry. Her system is more detailed and takes into account yarn weight.

…which goes to show that you never have to do anything, if you wait long enough.

February 15, 2007

Where to buy Japanese books

  Every now and then I get an email from someone asking where they can buy Japanese books. So far, I've been replying individually, but a collective reply will probably be more useful. So here's what I know. Please, let me know of other sources, especially in Europe, since I don't have any information about that.

I buy my books at Kinokuniya bookstores. They have stores in the US, Australia, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand.
Here is the complete list of Kinokuniya bookstores worldwide with contact information.
You can also order from them online or over the phone. My experience with Kinokuniya has always been very good.

Stores in the US
Asahiya, website in Japanese.
Locations: Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Torrance, San Diego, Chicago, New York.
Kinokuniya, website in Japanese with some English.
Locations: New York, New Jersey, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Jose, Seattle, Costa Mesa.
Sanseido, website in Japanese.
Locations: inside Mitsuwa Marketplace stores. They may be at other, independent locations, but I don't know.
Sasuga Bookstore, website in English.
Locations: Massachussets


Stores in Asia + Australasia
Kinokuniya: Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Taiwan, Australia, Thailand.

Stores down under
Kinokuniya Australia.

Stores in Europe
In Europe there are a few stores that sell Japanese items, including books, but from a quick scan it seems they don't have much in the line of craft books. In any case, here are the few I found.

Japan Centre Bookshop in the UK.
Jipango in France
Roellin Books in Germany

Online only stores:
Amazon.co.jp
Fujisan
Yes Asia


Some practical information

Amazon.co.jp
Amazon Japan now offers enough of their interface in English that it's possible for the rest of us to understand how to order. The shipment fees from Japan are high, but the basic prices are lower than at regular stores. If you lose your bookmark to this entry, just remember two things:
1) Choose English in the menubar

2) Open Amazon.com and perform the same operation on the US website comparing screen by screen with what you are doing on the Japanese website. The Japanese interface mirrors the US website closely, including placement of elements so for instance, if you were trying to add a book to your wishlist on the Japanese website, you would click the button highlighted in red on the bottom right. To create or view a wishlist, you would click the button highlighted in red at the top of the page.

This is the same page displayed with some elements in English:


Most of the time, I use Amazon.co.jp to browse or search books, then with the ASIN/ISBN number, I go to the Kinokuniya website to see if the book I want is available at a location near me. To see a book's ASIN/ISBN number, scroll down the page:


Kinokuniya

To check if a book is available from Kinokuniya stores, enter the ISBN/ASIN number in the input field by the pulldown menu called "Japanese books". I use the website for the US West Coast, as that is where I am. Make sure to use the Kinokuniya website for your area.

The bottom of this first page shows contact information for the area stores.

Entering the ASIN/ISBN number in this field will take you to a result page. If the book is in stock, it will appear as in the image below, with cover image, when available, and a list of the stores that have it in stock.

To see their other stores (East Coast and Asia): http://www.kinokuniya.com/

I hope this is not too confusing. I'll update this page whenever new information comes my way.

August 30, 2006

Finding information online - Part 1

I am putting together a few tips on how to do research online for a friend, and thought I'd share them. They are mostly a matter of common sense, but you might find them useful, if only to become more deliberate in your research. Also, don't forget all the ways you can find information OFF line: libraries, friends, experts…

I break down my research process in four parts:

  1. Plan
  2. Refine
  3. Evaluate
  4. Use

although they are not entirely sequential. For instance, evaluating your findings is something you do as you go, since accepting or rejecting a source affects your decision to continue a search.


1. PLAN YOUR RESEARCH STRATEGY

A — DEFINE THE PROBLEM

The most critical bit of your research is defining the problem and formulate a question that will serve as your starting point. Finding information involves searching or exploring, or a hybrid of the two. Searching is indicated when seeking an answer to a specific question, while exploration is a better starting point when you are not quite sure of what you need to find out.

Some examples:

1 - You know what you are looking for and can articulate your question in precise terms (you are searching)

— You are looking for examples of Philosophia Unicase (a typeface) used in printed advertising.
— You are looking for the recipe of a cocktail called Bellini.
— You are looking for the date of birth of Ingrid Bergman.

2 - You have a vague idea of what you need to find out and how to start a generic search (you are half searching, half exploring)

— You are looking for statistical data on Internet start-ups.
— You want to find out about knitting through the ages in Turkey.
— You need to identify a typeface.

3 - You don't know what you need to find out (you are exploring).

— You are trying to stay up-to-date on medical advances relating to child diabetes.
— You've heard about a thing called "wiki" and have no idea what it is.

Recognizing the nature of your inquiry and the extent of your knowledge of the subject helps you choose the most appropriate research tool(s) for the job at hand.


B — CHOOSE YOUR TOOLS

Without getting into options that require payment, such as subscriptions to libraries, databases and clipping services, the most common ways of looking for information online are:
Directories (a.k.a. guides, indexes)
Search engines (a.k.a. spiders, crawlers )

Web directories are human-compiled list of URLs (Internet addresses) arranged thematically for easy browsing. Popular directories are: Yahoo Directory and Open Directory Project.
Directories are useful for browsing.

Search engines are unordered collections of URLs gathered automatically by spiders at regular intervals. These collections are much larger than those of directories and potentially more useful. The downside is that you have to sift through a lot more chaff to get to the gold. Popular search engines are: Google and MSN Search.
Search engines are especially useful for specific inquiries.

Some search engines have a specific focus: Technorati and Bloglines are for blogs, WebMD for medical information, CitySearch for local searches, Google Scholar for scholarly literature, and so on.

You could think of the difference between directory and search engine as that between table of contents and index in a book. If you were to look for a broad topic in a book, e.g. antipasti in a cookbook, you'd go to the table of content. If you were looking for something specific, e.g. an antipasto called prosciutto e melone, you'd go to the index and scan the alphabetical listing for the word prosciutto or melone, which act as keywords for your search.

Other useful resaerch tools include:
Wikipedia
Bulletin boards (a.k.a. message boards, forums)

Wikipedia is a free online encyclopedia created collaboratively by people from all over the world. The largest portion is in English, but there are sections in other languages — currently 35 — and some of them quite large, as those in German, French and Japanese. Wikipedia is constantly being expanded and reviewed for accuracy and bias, for which it relies on the peer review system. According to a recent study published by the science magazine Nature, Wikipedia's accuracy is comparable to that of the Encyclopedia Britannica.
Wikipedia is great when you need an overview of a subject, even a complex one, such as psychology.

Bulletin boards are fabulous when you are looking for advice that does not require authority. For instance, you are caring for a disabled person and are looking for advice on how to cope. A dedicated bulletin board can offer you a way to compare notes with other people in your situation. It can put you in touch with people in your local community and recommend resources. As a knitter, I use bulletin boards to exchange information on knitting techniques, yarn shops, and the like.


C — PLOT THE COURSE

Let's say you are writing a mystery book and you want to find a slow-acting poison that is untraceable or traceable only with great difficulty. Let's assume you know little about poisons. Here are some possible research strategies (but don't let this stop you from coming up with more).

A) Look for someone who has already done the research for you. Other writers have been in your position. There must be advice already compiled and available online. Professional writers' associations, forums for amateur writers… The web has been around long enough that the odds of someone having researched, found, and compiled the information you are after are in your favor.

Think about who else might be interested in this kind of information and why.
Who may want to know about untraceable poisons in order to:
a) Use them: researchers, doctors, killers…
b) Recognize them: doctors, pathologists, forensic experts, detectives…
c) Avoid them: parents, pet owners, hazard workers…

You could run a search for "mystery writers resources untraceable poisons" or "forensic expert training untraceable poisons" or "treating victims unknown poison" and so on. You get the idea. The possible paths to your destination are limited only by your resourcefulness.

B) Do your own research and come up with your own answer. Possible reasons to follow this route:
— You'll gain more knowledge of the subject in general.
— You may get original results.
— You'll be exposed to incidental information and pick up lateral insights.
— You'll increase your chances to find out something interesting or relevant by serendipity.

First, you need to familiarize yourself with the basics. Let's see what we can find on Wikipedia. Perfect: an entry on poison, with a good introduction and links to lots of sources. Once you've familiarized yourself with the basics and the appropriate terminology, you are on your way to dig into the subject.

And… THINK CREATIVELY.

– If you speak another language, try running your search also in that language. Most likely, you'll find more information available in English than in other languages, but if you are researching 16th century philosophy in Europe, you might be better off doing your research in German. And if you are interested in Italian cuisine, guess how you'll find the authentic stuff?

I am running out of steam and this seems a good place to stop.
Look for Part 2 in a couple of weeks or so.

July 15, 2006

Tubular cast-on without the waste

  Tubular cast-on the Italian way is done without the extra yarn in contrasting color. It's no better or worse than the way it's done in the US. The result is identical: only the process differs. I like it because there is no unnecessary waste and you don't have to worry about finding a sacrificial yarn in the same weight, but different color. Here it goes (video clip of the cast-on and first row at the bottom of this entry).

You'll need an equal length of yarn on both sides to cast on the stitches, so leave a tail as if you were doing a long-tail cast on.

Holding the yarn with both hands, place it under the needle, keeping the tail in your right hand. NOTE: I keep the needle under my armpit so I have one less thing to worry about while I cast on.

From now on, you will alternate between using left and right hand, moving the yarn with one hand and holding the last stitch in place with the other hand.

Let's start. With the left hand, bring the yarn over the needle left to right, while the right hand keeps the bottom part of the yarn in place.

Now hold the yarn in place with the left hand and with the right hand bring the right tail from right to left under the needle.

Left hand: bring yarn over the needle left to right.

Right hand: bring yarn under the needle, left to right.

You have just cast on two stitches. Repeat this sequence until you have cast on the desired (even) number of stitches.

To recap the sequence:
1. Left hand: yarn over needle L to R
2. Right hand: yarn under needle R to L
3. Left hand: yarn over needle L to R
4. Right hand: yarn under needle L to R

Basically, the left hand will always perform the same action: bring the yarn L to R over the needle.
The right hand will always bring the yarn under the needle but alternating between L to R and R to L.

When you have the desired number of stitches, make sure you hold the last stitch in place as you change hands.

Knit the first row like this: *knit one, slip one as if to purl keeping the yarn in front of the work.* Repeat those two stitches for the rest of the row.

Knit three more rows like this. (Actually, you could do just two rows instead of four. It's a matter of preference).

This is my sample with four rows of *knit one, slip one as if to purl* followed by two rows of *knit one, purl one*.

This is what the edge looks like at this stage. And now the fun part. Removing the thread from inside the "tube".

Stretch the edge to see which thread moves inside the tubular part and with a needle or your fingernails pull out a piece of that thread just enough to make sure you got the right thread. This part is the only tricky step. I usually pull out the thread at several intervals to make sure I really have the right one. Obsessive, moi?

Now pull.

Et voilà, les jeux sont faits. You have your tubular edge and you didn't waste any yarn.

NOTE: This cast-on is rather elastic and sturdy and well suited to sweaters, particularly when using 1/1 ribs. It's not indicated for thick yarn.

Special thanks to Andrea who put up with me all afternoon taking pictures and even videos. I may have a video clip to add to this entry tomorrow.



July 16, 2006
You can now watch a video of the cast-on and first row. NOTE: You'll need QuickTime to play the video. Sorry, but I didn't have time to convert to a variety of formats and QT is a free download available for both Mac and Windows.